All of the photos in this blog are historic, taken between 1978 and 2019.
I’m leaving off the Facebook daily posts for today,
but shall be going back.
For the past few years Good Friday has become
special again.
There is somewhere I would really like to be today,
something my son and I have shared for a couple of years and it won’t be happening.
something my son and I have shared for a couple of years and it won’t be happening.
Back in 1978 some university friends and I took part
in Northern Cross, the pilgrimage where people walk over Holy Week reaching the
Holy Island of Lindisfarne on Good Friday.
There are two or three different routes each year. No doubt you will have seen photographs in
the newspapers on Easter Saturday of Northen Cross walkers crossing the Pilgrims Way, some barefoot.
Over the years I have kept in touch with some of
those friends, been put back in touch with others, and a handful of us meet up
every six months or so (this April’s Coven has been postponed).
Each Northern Cross route requires at least one
back-up driver to: ferry car driving pilgrims to and from the end and start
point of each day; meet the walkers at designated points with food and hot
drinks; carry anyone who can’t continue walking due to accident or blisters;
and to buy anything that might be needed en-route including food or equipment.
In 2017 my old university flatmate Dr E, one of the
Northern Cross organisers, put out a plea for a driver for her route from
Carlisle. I volunteered myself and our
car. From the start on the day before
Palm Sunday to Easter Sunday, I had nine days of blissful solitude driving
around the wilds of Cumbria and Northumberland interspersed with socialising
and, sometimes, worshipping with friends and strangers who became people I
liked.
It was the longest length of time I’d been away from the boys since they were born. They may have missed me but they survived. They even managed to use the washing machine when they began to run out of socks. It did me the world of good.
The next year I suggested to Thunderthighs that we
go up to Holy Island and see the pilgrims crossing the causeway. He liked the idea but, sadly, the weather was
so bad they walked the road causeway instead.
But it was still quite atmospheric.
Last year we drove up again and the weather was
wonderful.
Wearing wellies we walked out following the markers to the refuge point half way across.
We carried on further but turned around when the
going got simply too muddy and slippery for us.
As we walked back to Lindisfarne the wind brought the strange, ethereal, haunting singing of the seals across the sands to us.
Once we’d seen the Northern Cross pilgrims safely
ashore, and shouted hello to people I know, mindful of the tide we got back in
the car and came home.
I had intended doing the same this Good Friday.
But Northern Cross is cancelled this year, for
obvious reasons.
The only time it’s been cancelled before was during
the Foot & Mouth epidemic.
How desolate they must be.
How much more desolate they must seem on a day when
they normally see all the pilgrims and followers.
How desolate Lindisfarne itself must be without its
tidal flow of visitors.
And I wonder whether we’ll ever hear the seals
singing again.
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